Rose Care... Roses will grow in any good soil but do poorly in high alkaline soils, which should be amended, possibly with sulphur. For best results, and to allow the soil time to settle, prepare the beds at least 3 weeks before planting in April, or as soon as the soil is workable for spring planting, or in September for fall planting.

Double digging is recommended, if at all possible. Where this is not possible, improve the existing soil by adding generous amounts of well-rotted manure, compost and peat moss. Mix these well into the soil to a depth of at least 30cm (12 inches). Where the soil depth is not sufficient, or to improve drainage where soil contains excessive amounts of clay, using beds built up to a depth of 15 to 20cm (6 to 8 inches) with good top soil will provide suitable growing conditions.

Mix bone meal or super phosphate into the upper 30cm (12 in) of the dug bed, breaking up any lumps. Allow the soil to settle before planting. To avoid injury to the young roots DO NOT ADD any other fertilizer at planting time.

Disease control is obtained through protective sprays. A diseased plant cannot be cured. Apply fungicidal sprays every 10 to 14 days from the time new shoots are 10-15cm (4-6 in) high until October. Use materials specifically formulated for rose black spot and mildew control, such as Funginex alternated with benomyl or folpet (Phaltan).

In late spring, when the soil has thawed and a hard freeze is no longer expected, carefully remove soil mounds from established plants so as not to damage any shoots that have begun growth.

Wash away the last of the soil from the centre of the bush with a gentle stream of water. Clear away any prunings and dead leaves left from last fall.

In the spring, newly planted roses should be cut back quite severely, leaving only three strong canes 10-12 cm (4-5 in) long. This encourages production of strong growth for a solid foundation. Established rose bushes are pruned after the soil mounds have been removed in the spring when canes show signs of growth usually April or when the forsynthia is in bloom in your area.

Cut out any dead or diseased shoots to ground level. Remove weak, twiggy and crossing shoots to their point of origin, leaving only 3-6 healthy canes of pencil thickness or better. Cut these back to live wood, as indicated by white pith. Pruning cuts are to be made with sharp shears, about 5mm above an outward facing bud.

Winter Protection Cut canes back to about 70cm to 1m (28-40 in) to prevent them whipping about in the wind. Remove all dead leaves and any clippings from the bed. Bring soil to the beds and build 20-30cm (8-12 in) high. When ground is frozen, place leaves or branches over the mounds for further protection.